The World of Fine Wine - 19 Sep 2025
/ ANDREW JEFFORD ON QVEVRI: WINE’S MILLENNIA-OLD THREAD ARMENIA
/ SOUTH AMERICAN WHITE WINES
/ HEMEL-EN-AARDE
/ COLLIOURE
ISSUE 89 2025
Neil Beckett
HEMEL-EN-AARDE: A CAPE PINOT PARADISE?
THE THREAD: QVEVRI IN CONTEXT
PODERE IL CARNASCIALE: IN SEARCH OF THE HOLY GRAIL
THE THRILL OF ELEGANCE: SOUTH AMERICA’S QUEST FOR FINE WHITE WINE
FALERNIAN WINE: YESTERDAY, TODAY, AND TOMORROW
ARMENIA: RESTORING ANCIENT GLORIES
ROBERT DOUGAN: SOMETHING NOT SENSIBLE
WINESCAPES IN THE WESTERN CAPE
HATTINGLEY VALLEY: LAYING DOWN THE LAW
NICOLAS GROFFIER
PREVIEW
LIQUID ASSETS
ALTERNATIVE HISTORIES OF WINE
DON’T BETRAY THE MOTHER OF ALL CULTURES
HEADACHES HIDING IN A GLASS OF RED WINE
CHINA’S FINE-WINE MARKETS: FAILING OR CHANGING?
THE REWARDS OF PATIENCE AND MINOR MASTERPIECES
NOUVEAU
CONTRIBUTORS
CAN WINE BE NATURAL?
REVIEW
ONCE AND FUTURE GRAPES (PART II)
ENGLISH AND BELGIAN SPARKLING WINES: ACID TEST
ALSACE GEWURZTRAMINER: ENIGMA VARIATIONS
1986 CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC: RED WINE’S LOCUS CLASSICUS
COLLIOURE: COMPELLING EXOTICISM AND ORIGINALITY
GEORGIA: AN ORIGINAL DRINKING EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER
TASTINGS
CONTRIBUTORS
contributors
Sarah Marsh MW
contributors
Alternative histories of wine Harry Eyres
The Battle of the Bubbles: Judgment time for sparkling wine
On location: Burgundy and beyond
Frédéric Panaïotis (1964–2025): One of a kind
Frédéric Panaïotis (1964–2025): One of a kind
After a strong second quarter, there is cautious optimism for the market
Once and future grape varieties (Part II) David Schildknecht
Another essential volume for anyone who puts words to wine
A must-read for all who love Tuscany— not only its wines but also its culture, history, art, and gastronomy
An inspiring study of the relations between drinking and thinking
Lanson Private Collection: Paradise found
TASTING
2008 Dom Pérignon Plénitude 2: The separation of the powers
TASTING
2015 Salon Le Mesnil: Gloriously flattering
TASTING
Champagne Giraud 2017 Aÿ Grand Cru Argonne: Sheer presence
TASTING
Louis Roederer 2025 releases: Children of chalk
Cristal
2018 Deutz Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet and La Côte Glacière: Hearing secret harmonies
2018 Deutz Hommage à William Deutz Meurtet and La Côte Glacière: Hearing secret harmonies
TASTING
All for one: Champagne Barons de Rothschild 2019 Le Grand Clos
TASTING
Champagne Barons de Rothschild 2018 Triptyque (magnum)
Champagne Barons de Rothschild 2019 Le Grand Clos
Champagne Barons de Rothschild Brut Nature (magnum)
Champagne Barons de Rothschild Rare Collection 2013 Blanc de Blancs (magnum)
Champagne Bollinger PN TX 20: Village voice
TASTING
2023 Comte Liger-Belair: Quantity and quality—an absolute delight
TASTING
Antinori Chianti Classico Gran Selezione
TASTING
From Fitapreta to Letra F: 20 years of audacious fine-winemaking
TASTING
Penfolds Collection 2025: Pleasure and excitement, at home and away
AUSTRALIA
TASTING
USA WINES OF THE WORLD FRANCE CHINA
Klein Constantia: At the pinnacle
TASTING
80-Year-Old Tawny Ports: Time capsules
TASTING
Vigneron Prestige Blanc de Blancs: Small is beautiful
FLIGHT 1: CLAUDE CAZALS CLOS CAZALS FLIGHT 2: DUVAL-LEROY CLOS DES BOUVERIES FLIGHT 3: DIEBOLT-VALLOIS FLEUR DE PASSION GRAND CRU CRAMANT FLIGHT 4: MIXED BAG 1
Il Marroneto: Sangiovese in its place
TASTING
TASTING
Vasse Felix at 50: Returning to roots
TASTING
Headaches hiding in a glass of red wine Dr Erik Skovenborg
ROBERT DOUGAN: SOMETHING NOT SENSIBLE
ROBERT DOUGAN: SOMETHING NOT SENSIBLE
NICOLAS GROFFIER
NICOLAS GROFFIER
FALERNIAN WINE: YESTERDAY, TODAY, AND TOMORROW
FALERNIAN WINE: YESTERDAY, TODAY, AND TOMORROW
Can wine be natural?
THE THREAD: QVEVRI IN CONTEXT
THE THREAD: QVEVRI IN CONTEXT
WINESCAPES IN THE WESTERN CAPE
WINESCAPES IN THE WESTERN CAPE
THE THRILL OF ELEGANCE: SOUTH AMERICA’S QUEST FOR FINE WHITE
THE THRILL OF ELEGANCE: SOUTH AMERICA’S QUEST FOR FINE WHITE
The rewards of patience and minor masterpieces Nick Ryan
HEMEL-EN-AARDE: A CAPE PINOT PARADISE?
HEMEL-EN-AARDE: A CAPE PINOT PARADISE?
TASTING
TASTING
China’s fine-wine markets: Failing or changing?
PODERE IL CARNASCIALE: IN SEARCH OF THE HOLY GRAIL
TASTING
HATTINGLEY VALLEY: LAYING DOWN THE LAW
ARMENIA: RESTORING ANCIENT WONDERS
INFORMATION AND RECOMMENDATIONS
Red wine’s locus classicus
Andrew Jefford
WHAT MAKES OUR WINE TASTINGS DIFFERENT?
Collioure: Compelling Exoticism and Originality
Georgia: An Original Drinking Experience Like No Other
English and Belgian Sparkling Wine: Acid Test
Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer: Enigma Variations
THE PANEL
ENGLISH AND BELGIAN SPARKLING WINES: ACID TEST
ESSI AVELLAN MW’S TOP WINES
AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES
Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Coeur de Cuvée England 2016 (12% ABV)
Wiston Estate Blanc de Blancs Library Collection Brut England 2009 (12% ABV)
SIMON FIELD MW’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
Breaky Bottom Seyval Blanc Brut Cuvée Koizumi Yakumo England 2010 (12% ABV)
Louis Pommery England Blanc de Blancs England 2020 (Pre-Release)
Nyetimber Single Vineyard Brut England 2016 (12% ABV)
Nyetimber Classic Cuvée Brut England NV (12% ABV; magnum)
Camel Valley Special Reserve Brut England 2015 (12.5% ABV)
Harrow & Hope Blanc de Blancs Brut England 2020 (12% ABV)
Wijnkasteel Genoels Elderen Zilveren Parel Brut (Silver Pearl Brut) Belgium 2017 (12.5% ABV)
Ruffus Le Vignoble des Agaises Grand Millésime Brut Belgium 2020 (12% ABV)
Simpsons White Cliffs Blanc de Blancs Brut England 2019 (11.5% ABV)
Domaine Evremond Classic Cuvée Edition 1 Brut England NV (12% ABV)
Fox & Fox Essence Brut England 2016 (12% ABV)
Bride Valley Vineyard Blanc de Blancs Brut England 2018 (12% ABV)
Coates & Seely Blanc de Blancs La Perfide Zero Dosage England 2016 (magnum)
Chapel Down Kit’s Coty Blanc de Blancs England 2019 (12% ABV)
ANTHONY ROSE’S VERDICT
Langham Wine Estate Perpetual 1st Edition Extra Brut England NV (12% ABV)
Rathfinny Blanc de Blancs Brut England 2019 (12% ABV)
TOP WINES
The Grange White from Black Brut England 2020 (12% ABV)
Gusbourne Fifty One Degrees North Brut England 2016 (12% ABV) )
Sugrue The Trouble with Dreams South Downs England 2020 (60% Chardonnay / 40% Pinot Noir; 12% ABV) )
Hambledon Vineyard Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Brut England NV (12% ABV)
Hundred Hills First Edition England 2018 (12% ABV)
Squerryes Blanc de Blancs Exclusive Vintage Reserve England 2018 (12% ABV)
Cruysem Sous Bois Brut Belgium NV (12.5% ABV)
Hattingley Valley Kings Cuvée Brut England 2017 (12% ABV)
Lime Bay Winery Blanc de Blancs Brut England 2017 (12.5% ABV)
Crush & Brisk Blanc de Noirs Suffolk Coast England 2019 (11.5% ABV)
Roebuck Estates Rare Expressions No.19 England 2015 (12% ABV)
Flint Vineyard Charmat Brut England (11.5% ABV)
Wijndomein Hoenshof Bubbel Mousserende Wijn Brut Belgium 2022 (11% ABV)
Leckford Estate Brut England 2021 (12% ABV)
Rathfinny Classic Cuvée Brut England 2019 (12% ABV)
Domaine Chenoy Perle de Wallonie NV (12.5% ABV; organic)
Domaine Mont des Anges Rosé d’Assemblage Belgium 2022 (ABV NA)
Domaine Mont des Anges Brut Belgium 2022 (ABV NA)
ALSACE GRAND CRU GEWURZTRAMINER: ENIGMA VARIATIONS
ANTHONY ROSE’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES
Gruss Alsace Grand Cru Vorbourg | 94 Gewurztraminer 2011 (13.5% ABV)
ANDREW JEFFORD’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
COLLIOURE: COMPELLING EXOTICISM AND ORIGINALITY
SIMON FIELD MW’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
STEPHAN REINHARDT’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
GEORGIA: AN ORIGINAL DRINKING EXPERIENCE LIKE NO OTHER
AVERAGE AND RANGE OF SCORES
ANDREW JEFFORD’S TOP WINES
STEPHAN REINHARDT’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
ANTHONY ROSE’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
Don’t betray the mother of all cultures Michel Bettane
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