The World of Fine Wine - 1 Jun 2025
ISSUE 88 2025 / COLIN GENT MW ON THE FUTURE OF ENTRE-DEUX-MERS 2014–24 BORDEAUX / 2020 BRUNELLO / DÃO WHITES / NAPA / NEW ZEALAND
Neil Beckett
WINE AND WORDS WINE IN PEPYS: HO BRYAN AND BEYONDJ
FERMENT DID PEOPLE IN THE PAST REALLY DRINK WINE TO AVOID POLLUTED WATER?
FOLLOW THE LINE
FACE TO FACE PASCAL CHATONNET: EMINENCE GRISE PAR EXCELLENCE
ENTRE-DEUX-MERS: THE LAND IN BETWEEN
THEN AND NOW: CHÂTEAU MAGNOL AND THE COCKLESHELL HEROES
GENIUS LOCI DECONSTRUCTING NAPA VALLEY
VIN VOYAGE THE BÜRGENSTOCK COLLECTION
BORDEAUX PORTRAIT EMILE PEYNAUD (1912–2004): GIANT OF ENOLOGY
FINE WINE IN NEW ZEALAND: AN EXTRAORDINARY IMPACT
ALBION AWAKES WEYBORNE ESTATE: ALONE I WANDER
BURGUNDY PORTRAIT LAURENT TRIBUT
PREVIEW
LIQUID ASSETS SEEKING CERTAINTY IN UNCERTAIN TIMES, AS TRUMP SETS MARKETS SPINNING
REVIEW
L’ÂME DU VIN EDUCATION, EDUCATION, EDUCATION
IN VINO SANITAS AN UNATTAINABLE WHO CONDITION FOR THE ENJOYMENT OF WINE
NOUVEAU
GOOD HOPE NO MERE COMMODITY—BUT IS IT ART?
PRISE DE MOUSSE ONCE AND FUTURE GRAPES (PART I)
À LA VOLÉE THE DNA OF DP
FINISH THE NUMBERS HAVE IT… FOR NOW
CONTRIBUTORS
ONE BOTTLE 2022 PRINCE ALEXANDRE CHAVCHAVADZE TSINANDALI ESTATE KAKHETIAN BLEND QVEVRI: REDISCOVERING COMPLETE WINE FROM WHOLE FRUIT
LAYING DOWN 2014–2024 BORDEAUX: A DECADE OF TRANSITION
SAVOR DÃO WHITES: THE DISTINCTIVE STYLES OF ENCRUZADO & CO
LAYING DOWN 2020 BRUNELLO: MIXED RESULTS
TASTINGS
CONTRIBUTORS
Tim Hall
Sarah Marsh MW
Education, education, education
2024 Bordeaux: Red umbrellas
2024 Bordeaux: Red umbrellas
Cream of Yeast: The key to bottling microbial terroir?
Rioja at 100 and a crossroads
André Drappier (1926–2025) True to his roots
Seeking certainty in uncertain times, as Trump sets markets spinning
Seeking certainty in uncertain times, as Trump sets markets spinning
No longer a lone voice on en primeur
Once and future grape varieties (Part I)
Family tragedy, revolution, and botrytis: The life and times of the “Lady of Yquem”
A carefully researched antidote to much of the noise and nonsense around wine
Changes on the menu: The history of the world’s favorite piece of paper
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle: Moving above the radar
TASTING
Behind the scenes at Krug: Two new Editions and a deep dive into Clos du Mesnil
TASTING
Ulysse Collin recent releases: A Champagne odyssey
TASTING
2018 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame: The sun also rises
2018 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame: The sun also rises
TASTING
Champagne Valentin Leflaive’s latest lieu-dit releases: Les champs Elysées
TASTING
Ayala 2015 Perle Extra Brut: racy purity
TASTING
Ca’Marcanda: Angelo’s favorite child
TASTING
Cathiard and The Judgment of Caudalie
TASTING
Henschke 2021 single-vineyard releases: A place among the greatest
TASTING
Taylor’s Victory 80-Year-Old Tawny and 1975 Single Harvest Port: Amat victoria curam
TASTING
2023 Vintage Port: The fruits of a “welcomingly wet” year
The DNA of DP Tom Stevenson
200 years of Champagne Joseph Perrier
The Joseph Perrier family history
TASTING
Château Bélair-Monange 2008–2022: Bigger and ever better
Soil categories
TASTING
Château Bellevue Morgon 2009–2022: A Beaujolais terroir story
TASTING
Bolgheri DOC at 30: In pursuit of elegance, freshness, and terroir
TASTING
Togni Cabernet Sauvignon 1999–2019
Togni Cabernet Sauvignon 1999–2019
TASTING
An unattainable WHO condition for the enjoyment of wine
DID PEOPLE IN THE PAST REALLY DRINK WINE TO AVOID POLLUTED WATER?
PASCAL CHATONNET: EMINENCE GRISE PAR EXCELLENCE
PASCAL CHATONNET: EMINENCE GRISE PAR EXCELLENCE
LAURENT TRIBUT
LAURENT TRIBUT
WINE IN PEPYS: HO BRYAN AND BEYOND
WINE IN PEPYS: HO BRYAN AND BEYOND
CHÂTEAU MAGNOL AND THE COCKLESHELL HEROES
CHÂTEAU MAGNOL AND THE COCKLESHELL HEROES
ENTRE-DEUX-MERS: THE LAND IN BETWEEN
ENTRE-DEUX-MERS: THE LAND IN BETWEEN
TOP VIN 2024 WINNERS
FINE WINE IN NEW ZEALAND: AN EXTRAORDINARY IMPACT
FINE WINE IN NEW ZEALAND: AN EXTRAORDINARY IMPACT
BOX 1: STEVE SMITH MW
Smith & Sheth Cru Omaha Syrah 2021 ($80)
Bilancia La Collina 2021 ($160)
Craggy Range Le Sol Syrah 2021 ($145)
Trinity Hill Homage 2021 ($150)
BOX 2: GIMBLETT GRAVELS ANNUAL SELECTION 2021
2020 Kumeu River Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay ($95)
2020 Purini Hills Pope ($240)
2021 Te Motu (pre-release)
2021 The Landing Madre Chardonnay ($122)
2019 Gillman Vineyard (pre-release)
2021 Dry River Pinot Noir
2021 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir
2021 Kusuda Pinot Noir
2021 Escarpment Kupe Pinot Noir
BOX 3: BELL HILL
2022 Pyramid Valley Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay
2020 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir
2020 Black Estate Damsteep Pinot Noir
2020 Rippon Emma’s Block Pinot Noir
2022 Quartz Reef Bendigo Pinot Noir
2022 Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir
2021 Maude Mt Maude Reserve Pinot Noir
2021 Sato Sur les Nuages Pinot Noir
2021 Greywacke Wild Sauvignon Blanc
2018 Dog Point Section 94
2023 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc
2023 Blank Canvas Holdaway Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
FOLLOW THE LINE
FOLLOW THE LINE
No mere commodity —but is it art? Tim James
EMILE PEYNAUD (1912–2004): GIANT OF ENOLOGY
DECONSTRUCTING NAPA VALLEY
DECONSTRUCTING NAPA VALLEY
WEYBORNE ESTATE: ALONE I WANDER
WEYBORNE ESTATE: ALONE I WANDER
THE BÜRGENSTOCK COLLECTION
THE BÜRGENSTOCK COLLECTION
Rediscovering complete wine from whole fruit
Tastings
WHAT MAKES OUR WINE TASTINGS DIFFERENT?
THE WORLD OF FINE WINE 100-POINT SYSTEM
HOW THE OLD WORLD OF FINE WINE 20-POINT SYSTEM RELATES TO THE NEW WORLD OF FINE WINE 100-POINT SYSTEM
Savor
Laying Down
Laying Down
THE PANEL
2014–2024 BORDEAUX: A DECADE OF TRANSITION
2020 BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO: MIXED RESULTS
MICHAEL PALIJ MW’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
ANTHONY ROSE’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
DÃO WHITES: THE DISTINCTIVE STYLES OF ENCRUZADO & CO
SIMON FIELD MW’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
ANDREW JEFFORD’S VERDICT
TOP WINES
The numbers have it… for now Michel Bettane
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