The Caucasus

Wanderlust’s Elliot Wellsteed-crook discovers that the lands of fire, wine and stone are not so easily summed up, as he travels across Azerbaijan, Georgia and Armenia

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AZERBAIJAN “It’s positive energy!” declared my guide, Elhan, as he stood next to the eternally burning flame of the Ateshgah Fire Temple, a historic Zoroastrian pilgrim site. “The fire takes in the bad and gives out the good. But don’t get too close,”...

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