GOING WHOLE HOG ON A SMALLER SCALE

Rosemary, fennel, garlic pork chops have roastlike flavor

BY CHRISTOPHER KIMBALL
FOOD

• At weekly markets across central Italy, ancient town squares fill with the aromas of spit-roasted pork slathered in rosemary, fennel pollen and garlic. The enchanting smell is porchetta, a delicious homage to whole-hog cooking that’s as revered as...

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