Touchingly pious is Wat Phnom temple, where women seeking beauty in their next life apply lipstick, powder and perfume to a small Buddha

CRUISING

We’re seeing a Cambodia most tourists don’t. The food market in the former capital Oudong is for local tastes: fried shrimp with tamarind, frogs stuffed with pork, and grilled whole turtle. It’s a world away from the modern capital Phnom Penh, and...

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