From Barleycorn to Beer: The Maltster’s Magic Trick

Between the farm and the brewery, much of beer’s flavor is born in the malthouse. Here we journey inside a traditional floor maltings—and inside a kernel of grain—to witness the daily toil and tools that turn a raw cereal into the soul of beer.

By John M. Verive
GEARHEAD


IN SAN FRANCISCO BAY, between the City and the Oakland Waterfront, is the island of Alameda. The north end of the island—once a Naval Air Station—is now home to “Spirits Alley” and a dozen alcoholic-beverage manufacturers. One taproom stands out,...

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