SURFING SCIENCE
Every day, thousands of waxheads form a dawn patrol to enjoy Australia’s plentiful surf. But what’s actually going on when you catch a wave? Coastal scientist Rob Brander tackles the physics of everything from wave formation to staying on a board to spend
ZEITGEIST | SURFING
SURFING SCIENCE
On October 29, 2020, German surfer Sebastian Steudtner rode a 26.2 metre-high wave (86 foot) at Nazaré, Portugal. It’s considered to be the biggest wave ever surfed. Aside from the obvious questions of Why would you surf a six-storey...
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