Catfish Out of Water

I thought I’d left my Oklahoma hometown behind. Then a long-lost photo from my childhood brought it all rushing right back—and made me question who I really am.

BY JOHN PAUL BRAMMER ILLUSTRATION BY SOPHI GULLBRANTS PHOTOGRAPH BY ISA ZAPATA
The Bon Appétit 56 Table Talk


There’s this impossible photo of me as a child. I’m smiling and holding up the catfish I just caught. It’s my first time fishing. My uncle had taken me out to Lake Lawtonka—a man-made lake, as many in Oklahoma are. Nothing in the photo squares up with...

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